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Post by diamondelite on Aug 27, 2004 18:11:55 GMT -5
Hi!
I just got my new tumbler and am planning on using it mostly for metals such as silver and gold. I am using 2 lbs. of mixed stainless steel shot and some plastic pyramids for filler. To my understanding the steel shot needs to go threw an intial cleaning tumble. I've ran several cycles using the media mentioned, water, and ivory bar soap flakes ( approx. 1- 2 table spoons). Each cycle ran for a minimum of 4 hours. At the end of each cycle when I open it up, there is always a thick, dark grey slurry. I added a couple peices of scrap silver to see what the outcome would be. They came out dull and dark grey. There seems to be a lot of knowlegable people here so I was hoping someone could tell me what I'm doing wrong, or maybe gimme some other helpful hints.
Thanks everyone! diamondelite
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Post by sandsman1 on Aug 27, 2004 18:35:47 GMT -5
hi diamondelite i have never used steel shot befor but if you added soap and its gray try running acouple runs of just clear water and see if it clears up when i get grey in a wash run on rocks its usually the left over grit and rock thats on the rocks and in the barrel if its comes out real gray i do another run again and it usually clears it up,, and i use borax so maybe with ivory soap it allways come out gray im realy not sure but id give it a clean water run with nothing see if it clears up
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Post by docone31 on Aug 27, 2004 22:16:30 GMT -5
Stainless will print. I would be reluctant to use anything that solid with either gold or silver. My choice would be walnut media. Using either ball or rod stainless media with or without filler, kiss your details goodbye. Why are you tumble/vibratory polishing precious metals? I use a baking soda slurry for antitarnish and Zam for fine polishing. If casting residue is still on the piece, try heating in an oven at 500degrees and dropping in water. You will just lose to much with tumble/vibratory polishing. Try walnut media.
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Post by BearCreekLapidary on Aug 27, 2004 22:44:59 GMT -5
Hello Diamondelite,
I can't help you much ... as the only steel shot I use goes out the end of my shotgun ;D
I polish brass shell casings for reloading and I have only ever used Walnut Shell.
John
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Post by Harry on Aug 28, 2004 7:47:48 GMT -5
Putting hard metal against soft metal doesn't sound logical. Walnut shell is the way to go. Everything comes out great!
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Post by diamondelite on Aug 28, 2004 10:06:06 GMT -5
Hey,
Thanks to everybody who replied! I've ran a couple cycles with just the shot and no pyramids. It still came out dark. But it has only been 2 cycles. The reason I'm using stainless is because thats what the guy at the supply store said I should use. And it does seem logical seeing that that is what jewellers use in their magnetic tumblers. So walnut media hey? Do I use that dry? Combine it with other media? Has anyone actually tried that on silver? Will it get all the tiny hard to reach places? How abrasive is it? I'm impressed with how quick everyone replied. I was expecting to wait longer. You guys are great. And this is a nice little site!
Thanks again everyone! diamondelite
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Post by docone31 on Aug 28, 2004 10:24:51 GMT -5
I see what you are trying to do. I do not reccomend tumbling for precious metal. A few jewelers do use magnetic tumblers. The shot is also used dry. It does print grey. I have found, no matter what technique used, nothing replaces polishing. When I do my work, I use a steamer, both before working, and after working. It removes stearates from under the stones, and prepares the work for polishing. Usually, shot plolishing is done directly after casting and then the piece is worked up. Some feel it planishes the work. Watch what happens when you put a piece of reppose' in the shot batch. In re reading the original post, as long as the SS is tumbled it will always pring grey. It is the nickle in the SS, as well as the ferric components. Jewelers rouge is rust with a grease binder. Zam is titanium oxide. The polishing compound always imbedds into the work piece. Tumbling will not remove the contaminant without removing the detail. A foredom shaft tool will act as the finish polisher, detailer, and pin point polisher. Anybody can solder, an artist can polish and detail. The more you work on pieces, the better you will get. It takes time on the machine, dirty fingers, polish crud everywhere. Another thing about magnetic polishers. The people who use them leave out details about their use. Even with my ultrasonic, and ammonia, I still have to mechanically polish. Now, when you trim a stone to fit the piece, tumble polishing is a quick way to polish it up. When I do turquoise I polish with Zam and it looks great. Other stones I cut to shape and tumble polish. Good luck with your project. Maybe you might find the grail.
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Bostonpat
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2003
Posts: 17
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Post by Bostonpat on Aug 29, 2004 23:36:35 GMT -5
I've tumbled sterling jewelry I have made using stainless steel shot and a drop of Dawn Dish washing detergent, or chunks of Ivory soap - my silver - one piece had some 18kt gold on it - came out SPARKLING - a lot of wireworkers are using ss shot and tumbling their pieces - it will burnish and work harden. I also found that the tiny scratches from clean up were gone - with minimal effort on my part. This is a lousy picture - but these earrings came out blindingly shiny from the tumbling. Pat
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Bostonpat
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2003
Posts: 17
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Post by Bostonpat on Aug 29, 2004 23:45:50 GMT -5
I meant to add that I have read on a wire forum (Creative Wire Jewelry on Delphi) that someone had the same poblem as the origianl poster - she switched to Dawn and left out the plastic pellets ( which will defeat the purpose of tumbling) and did not have any problems with black slurry. Pat
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Post by docone31 on Aug 30, 2004 6:56:22 GMT -5
I like those earrings. You did well with the soldering. That is an application where tumble polishing would work. I am relutcant to try tumble polishing on my finished pieces. I like the planishing effect on a lot of my work however, I use a foredom hammer for detailing on large open areas. Good work.
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