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Post by wigglinrocks on Dec 14, 2016 21:42:02 GMT -5
I am planning on putting together a super grinder , the stacked blade variety , and wondering what blades others are using . I plan on 7" tile blades , stacking 12-14 or so . Just wondering if anyone had opinions on using continuous rim vs. the turbo style with the grooves on the sides . Does one chip more than the other ? I am mainly going to use it for pre grinding tumble material but would also use to pre grind pre forms . I have a lortone 2 wheel 8 " that I plan using for this set up . Any thoughts , opinions , guesses or whatever would be appreciated . I have read all , most anyway , the older threads on this subject but would like an update . Nobody really discussed pros or cons on blade type , at least not that I noticed . Thanks
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,169
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Post by jamesp on Dec 15, 2016 6:23:25 GMT -5
Looking forward to seeing what you do wigglin. Been thinking about doing a stacked blade thingy too. I would not think it matters so much about continuos vs. grooved. I think the stacked blades are aggressive due to the air space between the blades when spaced with washers.
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Post by wigglinrocks on Dec 15, 2016 13:21:22 GMT -5
A friend put one together a month or so ago using continuous blades and tells me to use those also , not sure exactly why though . Maybe has to do with formica being the right thickness for spacers . Seems like either would work for my uses . The grooved blades also are a bit less expensive . I have all winter to ponder this so I hope someone can point me in the right direction . McGills Warehouse looks to be the cheapest place to get the blades but I have never done business with them , so input on them would be helpful also . Not saying I am going the cheap route , sometimes cheap gets to be more expensive , just don't think it would be feasible to put a stack of high end blades on it .
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grizman
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since July 2011
Posts: 878
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Post by grizman on Dec 15, 2016 13:39:48 GMT -5
First off, I have no experience with this set-up, but it sounds to me like 12-14 blades + washers or spacers may be pretty wide for a grinder/shaft. Could you get by with say half that number with washers/spacers? I'm betting someone out there knows. The $$ saved may be a good thing?
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Post by captbob on Dec 15, 2016 14:00:35 GMT -5
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Dec 15, 2016 14:29:23 GMT -5
I'm not sure if the continuous rim blades chip any less than notched ones. I bought notched ('cause they were cheaper & I'm cheap). I only grind to about 1/16th " from the final shape & refine the shape on my 60 grit sintered wheel. I found a liquidator on ebay that had a few listings for 7" blades so I contacted them to see if I could buy a huge quantity. Many friends in my rock club wanted to make Super Grinders. We bought 90 blades for $286 shipped. That's $3.18 per. My stack of 17 blades is about 1.5" wide & cost me $54! Bummer is that I had to have a machinist friend bore them out to 1" to match my arbor. The ones I bought had a series of holes about 5/8" in from the edge. I bolted the stack together with 2 bolts. Lynn
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Post by captbob on Dec 15, 2016 14:42:20 GMT -5
Hey Lynn, have you posted pictures of your super grinder here before? If it's anything like that cab machine you built, I'm sure it's a winner!
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Dec 15, 2016 14:52:16 GMT -5
Hey Lynn, have you posted pictures of your super grinder here before? If it's anything like that cab machine you built, I'm sure it's a winner! Probably. I was poking through a Google search on the subject. I haven't looked at all the results yet. Como se dice "The Super Grinder is out there" Lynn
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grizman
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since July 2011
Posts: 878
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Post by grizman on Dec 15, 2016 16:40:24 GMT -5
OK, just like I stated above, I know nothing about making a rough grinder out of a bench grinder and diamond saw blades. Maybe there are others out there who are in the same place?
Will a bench grinder even work for the base unit? ...I know you substitute the stone with the blades. If not, what kind of grinder? What hp do we need? What rpm is ideal? Too slow? Too fast? (Info for folks who already have the grinder). What size blades...4, 5, 6, 8? Washers/spacers or not? Which is better? What do you use for spacing if not washers? Washer size? Do you need or use a water drip for cooling?
I bet there are even more bits of info us "greenies" need, but this is a start. Add any and all info that will help us build our own. Please?
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Dec 15, 2016 18:07:37 GMT -5
I run mine at 1725 RPM. Most bench grinders are double that speed. Lynn
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Post by wigglinrocks on Dec 16, 2016 0:57:18 GMT -5
zarguy , looks like you have a lot of grind time on your grinder . I like the bolt together idea . I looked at a friends SG today to get some ideas . He used 14 continuous blades with a formica spacer between them for a width of a touch over 1 1/2 inch . The blades are almost touching with just a slight gap between them . He says it really eats the rock . Guess I'll try to put something together and see how it goes .
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Dec 16, 2016 10:00:47 GMT -5
FYI I've read of people using CDs for spacers.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Dec 16, 2016 10:21:16 GMT -5
zarguy , looks like you have a lot of grind time on your grinder . I like the bolt together idea . I looked at a friends SG today to get some ideas . He used 14 continuous blades with a formica spacer between them for a width of a touch over 1 1/2 inch . The blades are almost touching with just a slight gap between them . He says it really eats the rock . Guess I'll try to put something together and see how it goes .
Actually I have very little time on it. If it looks worn in the middle, it's because the blades vary slightly in diameter. I could probably do something about that, like change the order of the blades or dress it, but it's meant to chew agates, not nibble them. Finesse is not part of its vocabulary. I want to get it out of my arbor & on its own arbor, or mount it directly on a motor. I cut up the lids from a plastic butter tubs from the grocery store to make spacers for between blades. They're thinner than CDs & they're what I had on hand. Lynn
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 16, 2016 14:34:36 GMT -5
I used to get boxes of 50 7" Mk tile blades from MK from Home Depot saw returns. Sold most to people making super grinders. The spacers between are very thin and only take up the difference between the core and rim. Someone told me the cd's for computers work perfect. The club where we used to live made a 10" grinder on a big Poly Arbor for grinding the points off sphere preforms. I saw it three years later and after a lot of hard use and the blades all looked like new. I think they bought whatever continuous rim tile blades available at either the local hardware or maybe Northern tool. The factor that makes tile blades grind well is the hard rim matrix.The club was lucky too because their landlord and neighbor was a metal fabricatin shop and bored all their blades to 1" for them.
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Post by pauls on Dec 16, 2016 18:25:39 GMT -5
I built one out of 5 inch blades, a mixture of continuous and slotted rim, nine blades in all, I could buy 3 packs of these blades quite cheaply, so I bought 3 packs of 3. I found my spacing is a bit wide for tumbling material it chews through the rock but leaves ridges which take a while to grind away, the space is probably about a sixteenth so is quite a thick ridge. I just feed water on top, it needs several nozzles or a wide slotted nozzle as the gaps dont allow the water to spread across the width of the grinding surface.
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Post by wigglinrocks on Dec 16, 2016 21:45:16 GMT -5
Thank you all for the input , this is the info I am looking for . Maybe I'm getting lazy but I would rather learn from others mistakes than to make all of them myself . Like what you would do different if you were to build another one . Doesn't sound like blade type is a big issue , cheap works for me . I think I also prefer to have it on its arbor . And it sounds like keeping blades tighter together could be a good thing . Any other input would be appreciated .
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2016 23:36:08 GMT -5
I am planning on putting together a super grinder , the stacked blade variety , and wondering what blades others are using . I plan on 7" tile blades , stacking 12-14 or so . Just wondering if anyone had opinions on using continuous rim vs. the turbo style with the grooves on the sides . Does one chip more than the other ? I am mainly going to use it for pre grinding tumble material but would also use to pre grind preĀ forms . I have a lortone 2 wheel 8 " that I plan using for this set up . Any thoughts , opinions , guesses or whatever would be appreciated . I have read all , most anyway , the older threads on this subject but would like an update . Nobody really discussed pros or cons on blade type , at least not that I noticed . Thanks These are what I would use. Zero doubt. An old CD between each will space the segments for greater chipping, easier clearing of swarf and less clogging between blades due to CD size. www.mcgillswarehouse.com/db3767a-7in-sintered-turbo-segmented-for-granite-58-arbor-w-diamond-knock-out-h5hc9gGranite includes quartz and that is closest in hardness to the things we tumble. A granite blade with segments will, at least for me, be ideal. 7 carats of 40-50 grit diamond per blade will do the work. The matrix is meant for harder materials. The site doesn't say kerf width so engineering the width of a finished grinding wheel is tough.
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Post by wigglinrocks on Dec 17, 2016 0:04:09 GMT -5
I am planning on putting together a super grinder , the stacked blade variety , and wondering what blades others are using . I plan on 7" tile blades , stacking 12-14 or so . Just wondering if anyone had opinions on using continuous rim vs. the turbo style with the grooves on the sides . Does one chip more than the other ? I am mainly going to use it for pre grinding tumble material but would also use to pre grind pre forms . I have a lortone 2 wheel 8 " that I plan using for this set up . Any thoughts , opinions , guesses or whatever would be appreciated . I have read all , most anyway , the older threads on this subject but would like an update . Nobody really discussed pros or cons on blade type , at least not that I noticed . Thanks These are what I would use. Zero doubt. An old CD between each will space the segments for greater chipping, easier clearing of swarf and less clogging between blades due to CD size. www.mcgillswarehouse.com/db3767a-7in-sintered-turbo-segmented-for-granite-58-arbor-w-diamond-knock-out-h5hc9gGranite includes quartz and that is closest in hardness to the things we tumble. A granite blade with segments will, at least for me, be ideal. 7 carats of 40-50 grit diamond per blade will do the work. The matrix is meant for harder materials. The site doesn't say kerf width so engineering the width of a finished grinding wheel is tough. Very good points except the segmented might be a little hard on my digits . It would be nice if they would list the thickness . I was thinking about the non segmented blades they have , also granite rated .
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2016 2:05:35 GMT -5
These are what I would use. Zero doubt. An old CD between each will space the segments for greater chipping, easier clearing of swarf and less clogging between blades due to CD size. www.mcgillswarehouse.com/db3767a-7in-sintered-turbo-segmented-for-granite-58-arbor-w-diamond-knock-out-h5hc9gGranite includes quartz and that is closest in hardness to the things we tumble. A granite blade with segments will, at least for me, be ideal. 7 carats of 40-50 grit diamond per blade will do the work. The matrix is meant for harder materials. The site doesn't say kerf width so engineering the width of a finished grinding wheel is tough. Very good points except the segmented might be a little hard on my digits . It would be nice if they would list the thickness . I was thinking about the non segmented blades they have , also granite rated . Digits? Naw. They never touch the wheel. Wear thick cloth bandaids. No big whoop. But if continuous rim make you comfortable? That would be a plan!
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,683
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Post by Tommy on Dec 18, 2016 11:44:46 GMT -5
Wear thick cloth bandaids. The bandaids are for *after* a day of rough shaping... aren't they? haha. Sometimes I think my fingers touch the wheels more than the rocks do lol. But seriously my question is about the space between blades. What's the science behind it? Has anyone done a study about the advantage gained with a space and where the point of maximum efficiency lies in a larger space vs. small? Is 10 blades with no spaces equal to an 80 grit wheel whereas 10 blades with an 0.03 space are equal to a 40 grit...
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