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Post by MrP on Apr 16, 2018 9:34:08 GMT -5
Well I guess there is no point in trying to brag about 11"..........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 16, 2018 3:52:14 GMT -5
I will bet this is caused by SUV driving Aliens......................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 14:52:06 GMT -5
I'll bet the micro bubbles I was talking about are left over divots from not taking the course to a fine enough grit. They are very tiny but they are there...........MrP You know tumblers don't remove material by scratching, they remove material by abrasives rolling between rocks/glass like ball bearings and gouging. This ball bearing rolling action digs tiny divots instead of scratching in a line. Look at any rock/glass in coarse with magnification, you will never see a line scratch because they are not there. There is no little man to hold an abrasive particle down and allow the rock to drag across to make a scratch. Glass is notorious for carrying a fracture and those divots run a lot deeper in glass than they do in agate. The problem is intensified because glass gets deep divots in 220 and 500 too. Not as deep as coarser grit but unusually deep non the less. So it is up to you to roll or vibe it long enough to remove the divots. To compound the problem glass gets divots from impact, but they will be on edges and points and easy to trouble shoot for that reason. Where divots from abrasives will be equally distributed all over the glass. This divot removal is not so easy to solve though. Easy to know why and talk big about it but removing them can be tricky. I have no real remedy, I did modify my vibe to remove them easily but don't really know why exactly. I can show you photos that is my gauge. A gauge that tells if they are ready for the vibe to remove them. I use it regularly and it is trusty. It requires a certain angle of reflection and the same camera at the same distance with the same light. The photo shows shadows created by divot depth, that simple. I'll post them now. Maybe it will make sense. These are acceptable shadows, left and right glass. Middle one is polished. These shadows are blacker and defined(deeper divots). These(top 3) need further tumbling before going to vibe or else polish will suffer. Lower ones are polished. Between jamesp and 1dave my heard hurts. James what you are saying makes perfect sense. With glass being soft the divot can be made deeper easier. If you don't get all the divots out from the stage before you can leave it in polish forever and you will never get the 'real' shine..........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 12:47:13 GMT -5
I like...........................MrP I see improvement in the reduction of pits after polish and am sure the reason is because I am rolling them thru rotary stages right up to AO 500 prior to vibe. The pits in glass from coarse grind are deeper than one would think. And those pits are 100% from divots made by coarse SIC. Yes a few bubbles but most of them are divots from coarse grit. Sure look like bubbles... These pits/divots give a cloudiness effect instead of a crisp sharp polish. I'll bet the micro bubbles I was talking about are left over divots from not taking the course to a fine enough grit. They are very tiny but they are there...........MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 11:28:00 GMT -5
Got it James. There sure is a difference in the vases. I have found a few very heavy fine colored with a white interior that the color is some kind of sprayed on coating. I almost bought the first one but thought something wasn't right and happened to see the smallest scratch on it. Some of the coatings are cheap and easy to see but there are some that are put on very well and almost fool me. Sure do like finding Quality glass.............................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 10:20:40 GMT -5
Sorry to hear about all the snow. Wish I was in the area to help. I live North of the Twin Cities and we got 10-12 inches last night. Was very windy but didn't find any damage from it. Good thing is it sounds like a few days of warmer weather coming but I am sure that will mean flooding in some areas........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 9:42:35 GMT -5
I like...........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 9:37:33 GMT -5
James could you snap a picture the next time you do the vase bottoms?............................MrP Glad to Michael. I will say it is only vases that react well to my heat schedule though. Many vases vitrify or simply will not melt at my temp schedule. In investing all this money in vases I have kept samples of each vase and it's reaction to my schedule(s). The next issue is the location of the color layer and the the fact the blower had to lay a minimum of 2 layers down together for this to make this mix/pattern. I now target certain brands, Asian vases noted for being heavy with heavy color layers. Italian noted for being light weight. Plus China has so many non-environmental friendly colors(only poisonous at manufacture). They fly w/no EPA crap. This brand is China made. Picked it up for a song used. Good for about 110 largish pendants. I know this vase is $100 at bulk import pricing(oversea container pricing). Good as glass blowing gets, and very fine glass. I find these around Atlanta as they have been heavily imported to this city for many years. Out generation getting rid of them. This brand is a candidate for many type of fusing arrangements like this side-by-side melt. I am an engineer so everything has to have a formulae. This vase weighs 5 pounds and just under 3/8" thick consistent = 110 largish pendants. I used to take a scale with me and measure price per 50 pendants when buying vases. It is now seat of pants This is one of those favorite vases from China. I can do about anything I want to it. check it out, one side: other side I do like that vase James! I have collected a lot of different vases and other blown bowls, glasses, plates, and other things. I need to find the right kiln before I start to see what will slump or fuse. I have broken and shaped a few pieces. You are right about those plier cutters, they sure work great! My wife found a lamp that was opalized and gold embossed, that I broke and made her a pendant earring set out of. The gold embossing will come off but you have to work at it to get it off so it will stand up for this use. I found that on some of the cheaper stuff the glass layers are 'chippy' so I have to be careful working the edges. The good thing with the thinner ones is that they are already polished so all that has be done is shape them. One problem is getting the right shape for pendants and earrings out of the vase or other object because of the shape of the item, that is why it will be nice to slump them. I sure wish it would warm up so I could start tumbling the thicker pieces..................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 7:31:17 GMT -5
My question was not a criticism. I've often wondered if using things that are meant to protect (including surge protectors) as switches (i.e. something that say reset instead of "on") was legit. I suspect they are not made for frequent tripping and hence might fail faster than a normal switch, but none of those I've used have ever failed. I definitely approve of gfi use wherever you feel the need and if it functions as a switch too, consider it an extra benefit. On a side subject, I was told by an electronics guy that mineral oil was a nonconductor and hence I did not have to worry about the switches that I constantly got oil on when I'm turning off my trim saw. So rest easy if your switch gets oil on it. The mineral oil is non conductive, it is the the dirt and other crap that you get in it that is conductive............................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 6:18:53 GMT -5
That's a really nice original way to do these. Simple, clean, and yet showy. Thanks, still kind of on the fence if putting it into silver is a good idea. Been watching jamesp to see how the hole drilling goes. Maybe try drilling holes myself today. A wire bail for see through cabs . Give it a try. Works for me........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 15, 2018 6:03:57 GMT -5
Wow! That Greek glass is the bomb! Too bad it delaminates sometimes. Glad I missed out on the previous discussion. Things could have gone south more than it did! I have a bunch of thick vase bottoms and overly heavy vases. They are thick with colored glass. Looks like I found a way to utilize them though a bit xxx rated lol. Nip off two chunks of equal size, grind a flat on one edge of each, set them on edge with the colored glass touching each other and melt. Who'd a known. The Greek stuff is the real bomb. 2nd Greek plate processed so far. They do fine if the metal foil covers less than 25/30% of total area. Can't wait to play with the reactive stuff. James could you snap a picture the next time you do the vase bottoms?............................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 14, 2018 15:42:15 GMT -5
I will take box 4.......................................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 14, 2018 10:48:02 GMT -5
jamesp what brand and size is your lager kiln?..................................MrP Isn't lager usually made in a chilled environment? 😎 Yes it is!............................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 14, 2018 9:52:39 GMT -5
jamesp what brand and size is your lager larger kiln?..................................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 14, 2018 4:52:59 GMT -5
MrP I just buy the Napa brand found at my Napa Auto store Thank You. Can you tell me what ratio you are mixing it at?.....................................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 13, 2018 14:44:44 GMT -5
Now that is some nice stuff! Never seen any like that.............................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 13, 2018 14:10:31 GMT -5
No reason to not leave it in the saw, water soluble is a misnomer it is actually an emulsion I have had it sitting for months and there is no separation just mix well before adding. Most all lapidary suppliers market some type but they tack 30-40-50% to the cost just to say for lapidary use, check the MSDS's they are all pretty much the same. I get the feeling that a lot of these suppliers etc. think we are all dummies (I guess I am) but I know you guy's aren't. What brand are you using and where do you get it?.......................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 13, 2018 14:03:35 GMT -5
I'm with him. Lube Cool 4800 now just called Lube Cool. I have used 20 Gallons of this in my LS10 over the years. Yes I have cut many slabs with this saw. I have also used Gem Lube but found that it had a reaction to the cast aluminum parts in the saw.........................MrP Can I leave it in the saw or will I have to drain every night? Leave it in...........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 13, 2018 12:08:15 GMT -5
I hate but why in the world don't you guys use water soluble oils think about it what are you trying to protect a metal blade. These oils are designed to cool ,lubricate prevent rust,eliminate misting in metal grinding and cutting at extremely high speeds. Most are a mineral oil base and now days biodegradable, costs vary but more than adequate versions are in the $30 per gal range with a mix ratio of 10:1 makes 10 gal @$3/ gal. I've been using this stuff for years and find it superior to all other oils I have used . I'm with him. Lube Cool 4800 now just called Lube Cool. I have used 20 Gallons of this in my LS10 over the years. Yes I have cut many slabs with this saw. I have also used Gem Lube but found that it had a reaction to the cast aluminum parts in the saw.........................MrP
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Post by MrP on Apr 13, 2018 9:04:40 GMT -5
Well James I have been thinking about this for awhile and am not sure what the answer is. I really like the making of pendants and earrings sets, that I make, but hate the selling part. I have sold many sets to the ladies I worked with and some at a couple of other places my daughter set up but I have donated all the money to charities so have zero gain from anything I have sold. I started in this hobby because my wife loved the idea of rock jewelry and I really liked rocks so why not give it a try. At the start I was able to get a very good buy on a large amount of rough and great equipment. Between my wife and two daughter they have about 350-400 sets so that is where my 'return' comes in. I also have another 500-600 other sets I have made up. My wife really likes glass also so I have bought a fair amount of cullet glass and had just bought a couple of vases for making jewelry just before you started buying your glass. After you started I have ended up buying a large amount of blown glass because I plan on doing the same kind of thing you are doing except I have no real plan to sell for a profit. I wish I did enjoy the selling part but I just don't because I can always find flaws in what I make and think others may feel they didn't get the deal they thought they had. Years ago I did oil paintings and ended up giving most of them away also.
That being said I will be watching what others have to say because I don't have the answers. I sure hope you get it figured out because it sure is fun watching how this project is coming along......................MrP
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