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Post by mohs on Dec 3, 2014 10:34:42 GMT -5
Yo James I thought you'd appreciate this Cherokee Saw & Tool cherokeesawtool.com/about.htmlI was employed with them long ago they are such excellent craftsmen! I learned so much unfortunately I didn't stay with the craft to an extent I went into data processing about as 2 different of industries as possible anyway this summer I went out and visited my mentor, saw man, and owner of the company. The man is wealth of grinding, machining and industrial know how in wood cutting technology. Plus he knows how to hammer saw blades I'm trying to get him interested in rocks. What he could show me in grinding & technique! Imagine using a profile grinder for preforming hearts! Anyway they are great guys If you ever have a need for that type of service or to recommend a business friend you can't do any better. Ed
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 10:49:58 GMT -5
Ed with his Cherokee Saw
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Post by mohs on Dec 3, 2014 15:25:04 GMT -5
I’d say that 30” Simonds alternate top hollow ground cross cut circular steel chop saw blade.
I’ve sharpened a few on ACME. That big blade to sharpen. Lots of teeth and its 15 degree face bevel. I'd say the hook is 9 degrees to center of the blade being that its cross cut saw Rip saws are much more aggressive in the hook. More like 16 degrees I remember this one time when the foreman was checking my work. We mounted blade to the saw arbor. The saw itself was encased a steel cage.
The alarm was sounded & the electrical box was SHUT-OFF ! The electrical box was padlocked to prevent any accidental start up. Thankfully.! That was probably learned the hard way in lumber mill history.
The controller then turned the electricity ON and let the blade whir for 15 minutes. Hairline cracks in those steel blades can cause disintegrating shrapnel. That what the steel cage is all about. Or a blade not securely mounted to the arbor? Can you imagine that blade spinning off the arbor?
The foreman then rolled a log in on the train. Just an end cut for a test. The chop saw was lower quarter of the way into the log. Then lifted. All hydraulic. What he was checking for was the set of the teeth. I had real nice clean V cut. I was real proud of myself and production commenced.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 15:52:02 GMT -5
Ed, I was going to braze them on this shape barrel, before I close it up with a plate. Mostly on the 13 inch center area where the wear occurs. So easy access for the brazing chore. Or have it coated with synthetic diamonds....I think you can melt a blob of solder and sprinkle the diamonds on. You can WELD those segments. Diamond stable to over 4000oF. bad data see wiki post below Also; you can fill a brass tube with diamond powder and flux, then braze that anywhere you desire. edited to fix bad data
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 17:15:01 GMT -5
What you said is exactly what I would prefer to do Scott. I have no knowledge of how to do such. I may set that bowl closer to horizontal where the rocks would slide and tumble, acting as a scrubber/tumbler type grinder. It is elliptical so it has two focal points, unlike a parabola. That may help with surface area. I saw the little yellow/green diamonds at Aliexpress. Those little crystals will take brazing temps ? Mercy They were sexy little morsels. Maybe I was looking at the wrong jewels. Can I braze 16 grit diamonds ? You hit the nail on the head. What do I do. That bowl will not hardly warp. I've welded to them for years. They are very stable. I imagine those sintered blocks are overkill for this gentle application. Where is mr.mohs the master brazer.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 18:38:43 GMT -5
Diamond is stable to over 4000f. bad data, see wiiki post below
If you can braze with brass rod, you can fill a brass tube with flux and diamonds and braze that.
I used the dropper tip of a super glue bottle as a funnel for filling the tube. When I brazed this with 100grit onto pipe fittings the finish was same as with 800grit silicon carbide
edited to fix bad info
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 18:45:54 GMT -5
From Wikipedia:
Being a form of carbon, diamond oxidizes in air if heated over 700 °C. In absence of oxygen, e.g. in a flow of high-purity argon gas, diamond can be heated up to about 1700 °C
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 18:50:26 GMT -5
Diamond is stable to over 4000f. If you can braze with brass rod, you can fill a brass tube with flux and diamonds and braze that. I used the dropper tip of a super glue bottle as a funnel for filling the tube. When I brazed this with 100grit onto pipe fittings the finish was same as with 800grit silicon carbide Very interesting. Does diamond have a different grit rating than SiC ? So it be brazed to mild steel. Prepped w/acid or a particular flux ? I suppose the brass slowly wears till the diamonds are protruding, is that so ? 4000F is real hot. I may look on Youtube to see a video of such.
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droseraguy
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Post by droseraguy on Dec 3, 2014 18:51:50 GMT -5
I swear you all are about the most entertaining and educational nuts I've had the pleasure to read. Tinkers, thinkers and stinkers...... I'll let you guys/gals fight over the titles.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 18:53:41 GMT -5
I swear you all are about the most entertaining and educational nuts I've had the pleasure to read. Tinkers, thinkers and stinkers...... I'll let you guys/gals fight over the titles. Hey!! I resemble that remark! Lol
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 18:55:23 GMT -5
I am told by Elin that "grit is grit" and diamond should be same size as SiC. I see a vision of a permanent grit roughing tumbler being made here. jamesp I just used a powdered brazing flux tamping it into the tube. To keep the contents in the tube I pinched off first one end and when full the other.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 19:44:45 GMT -5
I swear you all are about the most entertaining and educational nuts I've had the pleasure to read. Tinkers, thinkers and stinkers...... I'll let you guys/gals fight over the titles. My wife has a little lighting company called Tinkerlighting droser. A tinker was a fellow that travelled in a horse drawn wagon and repaired/sold tinware.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 19:53:31 GMT -5
I am told by Elin that "grit is grit" and diamond should be same size as SiC. I see a vision of a permanent grit roughing tumbler being made here. jamesp I just used a powdered brazing flux tamping it into the tube. To keep the contents in the tube I pinched off first one end and when full the other. These sticks cost $25 and covers a single large sphere cup. That can get pricey for a 20 inch bowl. I see them keeping the bead flat by rotating the round surface to avoid running.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 20:14:43 GMT -5
yeah, that dude is how I learned the tech. I read his patent and made my own. Patent protects him from competition, not from individuals using his tech on their own. WAY cheaper when you make your own. Tubing is $1 a foot, diamonds are diamonds and powder flux is cheap too.Cost you $40-$50 to cover the inside of that thing with stripes of brazing beads. Or less.................... How much grit will it save?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 20:32:40 GMT -5
yeah, that dude is how I learned the tech. I read his patent and made my own. Patent protects him from competition, not from individuals using his tech on their own. WAY cheaper when you make your own. Tubing is $1 a foot, diamonds are diamonds and powder flux is cheap too.Cost you $40-$50 to cover the inside of that thing with stripes of brazing beads. Or less.................... How much grit will it save? Coarse grit ? About $250/year. Now that I have a hungary vibe, I just need a coarse tumbler. So the diamond lining. I do need coarse diamonds. Thanks for the direction. I am going to study the ebay goodies.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 20:34:14 GMT -5
OK. I know K+S tubing, from the hobby store.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 20:35:31 GMT -5
You can probably do better on price for the stuff I linked on ebay. At least the tubing I expect you to do better.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 20:35:57 GMT -5
The flux seems like standard brazing flux.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 3, 2014 20:37:08 GMT -5
The scrap places do have brass. That thin K+S looks braze friendly.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 20:39:48 GMT -5
thicker might be a bit better as you need some brass to hold the diamonds. I actually added powdered brass too and then felt it was too much. Thicker walled tube may need more heat, but will braze at the same temp as any other brass. Just need a bigger flame.
I am sure you have plenty of torch to make this happen.
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