QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 22, 2023 14:02:13 GMT -5
I know it's years later, but I am also building a saw, I am looking for OD 4" flanges. I could accommodate 5/8-1" bores using bushings. Thanks so much, totally understand if you don't have them anymore lol Unfortunately Don (Jakesrocks) passed away a few years ago.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 2, 2023 16:00:03 GMT -5
NAPTHA will usually remove the sticky residue left behind from stickers. I used to be a furniture repairman and had to deal with this frequently with showroom furniture where they would use adhesive backed paper price tags instead of tie-on price tags. NAPTHA, which is the same chemical sold as cigarette lighter fluid (not the same as charcoal lighter fluid) is also sold in quart and gallon cans at hardware stores. NAPTHA would remove most sticker residues off of furniture without damaging the finish on nitro-celulose lacquer finished pieces.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 1, 2023 20:15:39 GMT -5
Hi, all. I am reassembling my old HP 6” combo unit after much yanking and cleaning, and have had the 1.25” spacer portion that was between the 2 wheels turned down to the same 1” as the rest of the arbor. The plan is to mount 1 or 2 more diamond wheels for a total of 3 or 4 to use before getting to the expando drum at the end. The question is—how close can the wheels be to each other before grit cross contamination is an issue, if it would be at all. I can get three 1.5” wheels on with 3/4” between or four 1” wheels or some combination. Thanks in advance for your input, Biggs (Larry) 3/4" spacing between the 6" wheels will be fine unless you plan on cabbing extra large monster sized cabs in which case you'll probably need a little more room. The DP Genie (older model) I have has 11/16" spacing between wheels. On the older model HP 8" unit I reconfigured I have approximately 1" spacing for grinding larger cabs of things like picture jasper.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 1, 2023 20:08:45 GMT -5
I prefer lower domed lighter weight cabs so on average I slab mine at 5.5 to 6mm for producing medium to larger sized cabs. If a rock looks more suited to smaller cabs I may slice as thin as 4mm.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 1, 2023 19:49:04 GMT -5
I'm too impatient for all of that. I just squeegee off the oil from the slabs. Then wipe the slabs off with a paper towel and put them in a repurposed one gallon plastic ice cream tub with about 1/2" of lacquer thinner in the bottom. Let the slabs sit in the thinner until the next slabs are sawn. Then using neoprene coated gloves, remove the slabs from the thinner and wipe them down with a clean paper towel and wa-lah. The oil is gone. When the lacquer thinner gets so dirty it starts turning yellow I replace it.
(*Only use lacquer thinner in a well ventilated area away from sparks or flame and read the safety instructions on the label.)
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 28, 2023 21:13:54 GMT -5
I'm old enough to remember when kit saws were still in vogue. A lot of folks who made the ones with plywood reservoirs lined them with fiberglass to prevent leaking.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 21, 2023 21:39:09 GMT -5
Does anyone else have a problem with buying things that ultimately they don’t really need? I can't answer that question right now...my wife is watching.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 16, 2023 19:37:22 GMT -5
The Rock Rascal Model "T" is a good companion tool for tumbling. It has a 6" trim saw and room for one 6" diameter x 1.5" wide wheel on the side. So with a coarse wheel mounted on it you can trim saw and rough grind rocks to prepare for tumbling.
And if you would like to occasionally cut cabochons you can do that too simply by changing wheels. Years ago a rock shop in western NC used to sell a kit they put together that consisted of the Rock Rascal Model "T", a 100 grit SC Wheel, a 220 grit SC wheel, a 6" x 1.5" rubber Expando sanding drum, 400 and 600 grit SC belts to use with the Expando drum, and a 6" hard felt wheel for polishing. An inexpensive way to get into cabbing. Anyone could put together a similar accessory package to use with a model "T" or even better yet one with diamond wheels and belts or soft wheels. While it is a little more time consuming having to change wheels or belts between stages, some of this time loss can be offset by processing multiple cabochons at each grit stage.
The Rock Rascal models "T" and model "J" have been in production for over four decades. Some years back Johnson Brothers Lapidary bought the rights to produce and sell the Rock Rascal machines. They sell the model "T" on their site as the "6 inch combination saw - grinder" for $530 with motor and $332 without motor. The one with the motor already mounted has the motor mounted on a steel plate underneath the machine and is mounted very close to the machine. Which causes more vibration to be transferred to the machine. So IMO it's better to get the model "T" basic which comes without the motor, and then acquire and mount a motor yourself on a piece of plywood or fiberboard with a longer belt to keep the motor farther away from the machine so less vibration is transferred to the machine. The Rock Rascal machines use a common 1/3hp 1725rpm general purpose continuous duty motor which is one of the most common fractional motors available.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 9, 2023 1:56:36 GMT -5
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
|
Post by QuailRiver on Mar 3, 2023 18:32:29 GMT -5
Thanks again QuailRiver. I just ordered the last available motor assembly from Rick. It wasn't cheap, but probably less than it should be. He said he's had the same price for the last 9 years or so. It's complete with the counterweight and everything so I just bolt it on and plug it in. It's more than I wanted to spend but I got the flat lap for practically nothing. I'm glad that Rick was able to help you with the new motor. Being able to get one that just bolts on will probably save you enough time and labor to offset the costs versus trying to attach an odd motor to the original mount.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 3, 2023 14:56:45 GMT -5
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 3, 2023 1:22:25 GMT -5
So from what she told me it was bought by a college to use to crush rock to make pigments. It can also be used as an industrial grade tumbler. Ball Mills can be used to mill paint pigments which are similar, and often the same oxides and minerals that are used to make and color ceramic glazes with (I used to be a potter). And these mineral pigments used for glazes and paints are already crushed to powder prior to being ball milled to a finer grade. If those barrels on the Craftool Ball Mill pictured are made of ceramic as they appear to be in the photos, and if they do not have rubber liners (which can't be determined from the photos) then they would not likely hold up well for tumbling hard rocks like agates and jaspers, especially in the rough grinding stages of jagged rocks. Also they would be extremely noisy for while they lasted. Here are links to a couple of more modern versions of the ceramic barrels and ball mills used for milling glazes: www.usstoneware.com/ceramic-grinding-mill-jars.htmwww.baileypottery.com/store-dept-pottery-ceramic-studio-equipment/store-glaze-equipment/store-glaze-equipment-ball-mills.htmlBut I don't see any reason why with proper rock tumbling barrels added that the base of the machine you have pictured couldn't be used for rock tumbling.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 3, 2023 1:02:58 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure that this ball mill is designed for making ceramic glazes. Round porcelain media is added to glaze mixtures in the ceramic barrels and turned to grind the glaze ingredients into finer particles and a more consistent mixture. Doing this produces a better quality and more even glaze for ceramics. ...also I believe that Pyrotechnic enthusiasts use this type of ball mill for making fireworks. For what use would it have in lapidary? The base could be used with rock tumbling barrels. But those barrels that are on it appear to be ceramic barrels and of the style that are used for ball milling ceramic glazes.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 2, 2023 14:10:48 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure that this ball mill is designed for making ceramic glazes. Round porcelain media is added to glaze mixtures in the ceramic barrels and turned to grind the glaze ingredients into finer particles and a more consistent mixture. Doing this produces a better quality and more even glaze for ceramics.
...also I believe that Pyrotechnic enthusiasts use this type of ball mill for making fireworks.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 25, 2023 15:32:01 GMT -5
And QuailRiver I had a 6" one with autofeed once, think it went to someone here. Yes I have had a couple of those too. Made just like the 10" models complete with power feed and plexiglass hood. They were great little saws. I found that 6" model especially useful for cutting boules of synthetic corundum and Y.A.G.. The slow feed rate of the power feed helped extend blade life when sawing those really hard boules of synthetic materials and kept those thinner faceter's blades from wanting to flex and veer off course.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 25, 2023 15:23:34 GMT -5
...So now I’m a little bit wiser about the L-10S but still get my safety glasses covered in a fine mist of oil or water 😂. I still think it’s a great saw and really like the removable plastic tub that holds the coolant. Happy cutting, y’all! Did your saw come with the removable splash guard that mounts on the front edge of the saw's table rim? This helps a lot with containing spray, so if you don't have it you may want to consider ordering one from Rick if they are still available.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 25, 2023 15:02:08 GMT -5
Yes I agree, in my experiences dealing with Rick Scott he has always been a great person to deal with. But while Rick may only offer the Raytech 10" saw with an automatic power feed, Raytech Industries did used to offer their 10" trim/slab saw with or without a power feed system or hood. And for a while they offered an even more basic model which came without power feed, hood, motor, motor base, pulley guard or blade as can be seen in the 1990s cropped catalogue page below.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 12, 2023 2:05:51 GMT -5
Many years ago ( think it was in the late 1980s or early 90s) Raytech sold out to Lyman Products. Lyman Products is a shooters supply company that wanted the Raytech line of Vibe Tumblers to sell to their customers who do ammo reloading. So they bought the whole Raytech company, including the Poly-Arbor line which Raytech had acquired from Poly Products and added to their line of lapidary equipment back in the late 1970s. Lyman's didn't give a rat's yack about lapidary and discontinued production of several Raytech lapidary machines and the Poly Arbors. Which was a #$%^ shame because those Poly Arbors were among the best made. About 10 or 12 years ago I had a phone conversation with a man there who if I remember correctly was the owner at Lymans about a problem I was having with one of their then-newly outsourced South Korean diamond blades. He seemed clueless and it was nothing short of painful trying to deal with him. Fortunately Lyman's eventually sold the rights to produce the Raytech-Shaw faceting machines to Rick Scott of Scott Enterprises in Littleton, Colorado. Rick is the son of the man who was the original manufacturer of the Raytech-Shaw faceting machine. A few years later Rick acquired the rights to produce the rest of the Raytech lapidary line but at this point as far as I know he is only producing the "45 Jem Saw", the 6" trim saw, the 10" trim/slab saw, the 15" Hustler Vibrating lap, and the Raytech-Shaw faceting machine and accessories. I have dealt with Rick Scott several times over the last 15 years and he has always been friendly and helpful, and has shipped my orders quickly. Rick for the most part runs a one-man-show. He doesn't do a lot of advertising and his web sites are modest. For parts and accessories it's best to email or call him. You can see his saw and vibe lap page, and PDFs of the Owners Manuals of current and a few out of production Raytech machines at this link: rick8260.wixsite.com/raytechsaw...and you can see his Raytech-Shaw Faceting Machine page linked here: raytechshaw.com/
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 7, 2023 19:02:19 GMT -5
For trimming smaller slabs I have a Rock Rascal model "J" that I have had since the early 1980s. I've had both the basic model and the factory mounted motor models of both the Rock Rascal model "J" and model "T". For both I prefer them without the factory mounted motor because the factory motors are mounted too close to the saw. And the saw and motor are both mounted on a sheet steel base. The short belt and the sheet steel base transfer too much vibration to the trim saw.
I mounted my rock Rascal model "J" on a piece of 3/4" countertop laminate and with a 36" belt. These saws use a 1725rpm continuous duty, general purpose motor which is one of the most common fractional motors. It's fairly easy to find used motors this size and new ones aren't very expensive either. So if you decide to go with the Rock Rascal you can save some money and get better performance by getting the basic model without motor or base and then finding a used motor.
Also if it's helpful to your decision the Rock Rascal model "J" uses a water pump bearing with a left-hand threaded arbor that if ever needs to be replaced is easier to just order from Johnson Brothers than trying to find elsewhere. The Rock Rascal model "T" uses roller bearings that are easy to find at most any good industrial machine supplier.
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